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Door knob troubleshooting
The expected lifespan of a door knob is somewhere between 4 - 10 years depending on how the fire is being operated.
The door handle will get hot during operation and this is completely normal.
There are two typical known causes of premature failure of the door knob. The first is excessive charring on the back of the knob due to high levels of concentrated heat from burning close behind the door area. The second cause can be due to the door being over-tightened when it is closed which in turn leads to it being very tight to open once the fire has heated up. The continued cycle of this over-tightening causes the screws to become weakened from the higher levels of load put on them in each direction each time, which eventually results in it coming loose and breaking away from their fixings.
A combination of these two is actually the most common cause of door knob failure. To avoid these issues and extend the lifespan of the door knob, keep a clear area of approximately 10cm in the front of the firebox and maintain your fire underneath the air tubes in the top of the cylinder, this will give the additional benefit of letting the cylinder absorb the maximum amount of heat from your fuel load before it leaves the fire chamber.
If you are finding the door knob too hot when trying to refuel your fire then you are probably trying to refuel too soon, the door knob is a great indicator of what’s happening within your fire so if you can’t reload then you don’t need to yet. If your door knob is starting to show signs of charring then you are probably burning your fire too close to the door.
Do not lean on the door or use it to help you stand up when it is open as this can cause the door to move. If your door does become misaligned then you will need to loosen the top bolt going horizontally through the hinge bar and lift the door back into the correct position for the spindle to line up and then re-tighten the bolt.
Can I cook on the top?
Yes you can cook on the 10mm thick steel top plate of the fire once a good fire has been established inside the fire chamber. You can use this area for all manner of cooking or warming. The cooktop oven provides better control and more versatility with cooking, which can be purchased from our online shop.
Cook top area measures 0.26m2.
Why is the door glass small?
Big door glass = big waste of heat
Glass is a very poor insulator, which is not ideal when it comes to wood fires!
The original Pyroclassic fire did not even have a glass as the scientists wanted the fire to be as efficient as possible. Over time, consumers expressed their desire for a window into the fire which has resulted in the glass getting larger with each version.
The Pyroclassic IV has the largest door glass that can be fitted to the front of the fire as the glass retaining strips fit just inside the front opening of the fire chamber.
Can I use a heat transfer kit?
The simple answer is yes.
The thing with heat transfer kits is they work well with excess heat. The Pyroclassic IV produces a different kind of heat than your traditional 'black box' style wood fire. The black box fires spit out heat almost instantly as long as you keep refueling it regularly so will therefore provide you with excess heat which is why heat transfer kits are useful for these kind of fires. The Pyro on the other hand takes longer to heat up but once up to temperature retains this heat like a kiln and gives off a lovely, warm more consistent heat with less fuel needed once the cylindrical ceramic fire chamber is hot. Many Pyro customers find this as the biggest advantage of a Pyro and have it going for 2-3 months solid during winter. However, it won't necessarily provide lots of excess heat for use in a transfer system. Our recommendation is to install the Pyro first before the transfer system as you may likely find you don't require one.
It is worth noting that in newer homes which have much better seals around doors and windows these kits can cause a negative pressure to build up in the room the fire is in as all the air is being sucked out. This results in the fire being starved of air and in some cases has even caused smoke from the starving fire being drawn back into the room. This same effect can also be caused by powerful range hoods and other fan forced systems in newer, more airtight housing.
If you are building a very airtight home, we recommend you put in an air vent, approximately the size of a fire brick. The Pyroclassic IV needs 3.6 cubic metres of air per kilogram of wood to operate effectively.
Can I use other tools in my Pyroclassic fire chamber?
Depending on how the fire is used, the surface of the cylinder can wear and erode over time. This can be accelerated through using the wrong tools, such as a flat shovel to remove ash (shown below). As you can see, this has resulted in two carved grooves in the ceramic. Although this is not ideal, it is not of a major concern as the cylinder wall is over 35mm thick so it will not compromise the integrity of the structure and the surface can easily be repaired through the application of veneering cement, which can be purchased from our online shop.
How much does it cost?
To download the RRP price list of our Pyroclassic wood fire and accessories, click HERE.
Why is the door lock hard to operate?
Apply a small amount of high temperature grease to the thread (grease with graphite or molybdenum disulphide only).
This could be because you are over tightening the door spindle thread. The Pyroclassic IV door seals with minimum pressure. Do not over-tighten as this shortens the life of the door handle gasket life.
Why do I need a Wall Screen or a Flue Shield?
Pyroclassic Fires can be installed with a double skin half round flue shield or for minimum clearances from combustible walls a correctly sized wall screen must be installed, the clearances for these are shown in the relevant Tech Spec sheet for each fire.
Alternatively you can install a Pyroclassic Fire without wall screens if you chose to use a non-combustible wall board product such as Eterpan, Supalux or Promina board and install it as per the manufacture specifications. Usually this involves ensuring a 25mm air gap is maintained between the wall board and any timber framing, through the bottom, up between the combustible surface and the screening material and out of the top.
In some instances the wall may not contain any combustible material and therefore will not require any screening.
Pyroclassic Wall Screens now have a simple keyhole hanging system to make installation very easy.
We have just had a minor gas explosion/back puffing in our Pyroclassic. Why has this happened?
This could be caused for the following reasons:
- Rake not used to bring hot char forward causing wood to burn at the wrong end. Use the rake as per Operating Instructions.
- The Turboslide was not opened after re-loading large, cold logs.
- The burning of an explosive substance - battery, aerosol container, etc. DO NOT DO THIS!
- There was an insufficient bed of coals to ensure adequate ignition of a fresh fuel load.
- Too high moisture content of wood fuel. Split one of your logs in half and use your moisture meter to test the wood.
As a point of caution you should never insert a fresh log which is too large or placed in the fire too late to ensure a flaming combustion, doing this will cook the wood fuel on the remaining embers releasing unburnt volatile gases into the combustion chamber which will eventually reach a point of ignition, this can result in a sizable explosion inside the fire chamber and may cause damage to the unit.
My fire is slow to start up. What can I do?
- Open the Turboslide by moving it to the far left or right position.
- Check the start-up hole is free of ash and char on the inside, push back any build-up with the rake. The start-up air supply hole allows air to enter the fire chamber like a pair of old fashioned bellows, if the hole is clogged with ash and char it will not work.
- Check for air leakage around the cook top, around the flue collar and in the flue pipe joints. Air bypassing the fire chamber reduces draft. Repair any air leaks.
- Slow start up can occur if you are fueling the fire with large or wet logs or loading onto too few hot coals. Use dry kindling to start fire quickly. DO NOT USE WET FUEL.
- Insufficient draft. Review chimney construction and investigate air pressure levels in the home.
- Warm, humid conditions outside or an inversion layer. Wait until the flue pipe heats-up.