Help Centre

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  1. Door knob troubleshooting 14/12/2017

    The expected lifespan of a door knob is somewhere between 4 - 10 years depending on how the fire is being operated. 

    The door handle will get hot during operation and this is completely normal. 

    There are two typical known causes of premature failure of the door knob. The first is excessive charring on the back of the knob due to high levels of concentrated heat from burning close behind the door area. The second cause can be due to the door being over-tightened when it is closed which in turn leads to it being very tight to open once the fire has heated up. The continued cycle of this over-tightening causes the screws to become weakened from the higher levels of load put on them in each direction each time, which eventually results in it coming loose and breaking away from their fixings.

    A combination of these two is actually the most common cause of door knob failure. To avoid these issues and extend the lifespan of the door knob, keep a clear area of approximately 10cm in the front of the firebox and maintain your fire underneath the air tubes in the top of the cylinder, this will give the additional benefit of letting the cylinder absorb the maximum amount of heat from your fuel load before it leaves the fire chamber.

    If you are finding the door knob too hot when trying to refuel your fire then you are probably trying to refuel too soon, the door knob is a great indicator of what’s happening within your fire so if you can’t reload then you don’t need to yet. If your door knob is starting to show signs of charring then you are probably burning your fire too close to the door.  

    Do not lean on the door or use it to help you stand up when it is open as this can cause the door to move. If your door does become misaligned then you will need to loosen the top bolt going horizontally through the hinge bar and lift the door back into the correct position for the spindle to line up and then re-tighten the bolt.

  2. How do I use my re-usable fire starters? 14/12/2017

    Place the soaked fire starter in the front of the fire chamber just underneath the front of your kindling. When the fire has started use tongs to remove it and place somewhere safe to cool down. When the fire starter is cold, place into a jar of methylated spirits for storage. 

    Warning

    • NEVER leave methylated spirits near the lit fire
    • NEVER soak a hot fire starter in methylated spirits 
    • NEVER squirt spirits or any liquid fuels directly into the fire chamber

     

  3. Can I use a heat transfer kit? 14/12/2017

    The simple answer is yes.

    The thing with heat transfer kits is they work well with excess heat. The Pyroclassic IV produces a different kind of heat than your traditional 'black box' style wood fire. The black box fires spit out heat almost instantly as long as you keep refueling it regularly so will therefore provide you with excess heat which is why heat transfer kits are useful for these kind of fires. The Pyro on the other hand takes longer to heat up but once up to temperature retains this heat like a kiln and gives off a lovely, warm more consistent heat with less fuel needed once the cylindrical ceramic fire chamber is hot. Many Pyro customers find this as the biggest advantage of a Pyro and have it going for 2-3 months solid during winter. However, it won't necessarily provide lots of excess heat for use in a transfer system. Our recommendation is to install the Pyro first before the transfer system as you may likely find you don't require one.

    It is worth noting that in newer homes which have much better seals around doors and windows these kits can cause a negative pressure to build up in the room the fire is in as all the air is being sucked out. This results in the fire being starved of air and in some cases has even caused smoke from the starving fire being drawn back into the room. This same effect can also be caused by powerful range hoods and other fan forced systems in newer, more airtight housing.

    If you are building a very airtight home, we recommend you put in an air vent, approximately the size of a fire brick. The Pyroclassic IV needs 3.6 cubic metres of air per kilogram of wood to operate effectively. 

     

  4. How far does the door come out into the room when opened? 14/12/2017

    The door when opened comes out 370mm from the front steel plate, plus 20mm for the door knob. 

  5. How do I use my moisture meter? 14/12/2017

    The moisture meter is intended to be used regularly throughout the drying process, from when you first get your wood fuel delivered right through to just before burning it. It will allow you to know exactly what the moisture content of the wood fuel you are using is and it will ensure that if used correctly your new fire will be able to perform well. Poor quality wood fuel is the number one cause of issues with all wood fires and flue systems.

  6. Why has the top plate dropped down at the front and ridden up at back and the insulating wool is visible? 14/12/2017

    The top plate may have dropped due to the front layers of insulating gasket moving out of position. This could be for a number of reasons but most often is due to a disturbance during sweeping.

    If the layers of white gasket material are still intact they can be relocated back into position. If not then new sealing strips can be ordered to replace these from our online shop.

  7. Do I need to grease the doorknob spindle? 14/12/2017

    A small amount of graphite grease should be applied sparingly and only occasionally to the spindle of the doorknob, twice a year is usually sufficient.

    Ashes from the fire have a gritty texture and over time this can cause wear on the doorknob spindle. Use a tiny amount of grease to lubricate the groove in the first thread of the spindle which can be applied with a matchstick or cocktail stick.

    Please note: only a small amount is needed, if too much is used it will melt and dribble down causing an unsightly stain, be sure to remove any excess before relighting the unit.

  8. Our Pyroclassic fire appears to have 'rust-like' dust coming out at the bottom. What is this? 14/12/2017

    The rust dust is probably just the exposed bottom edges of the top valley walls where they meet the cylinder rap rusting a little bit due to moisture passing through the fire from the wood fuel. This is where it tends to collect and is quite normal to see and is nothing to be concerned about.

  9. Air Supply 14/12/2017

    The room or space containing the Pyroclassic needs no additional ventilation unless a draught stabilizer is fitted, in which case a permanent opening of at least 1500mm2 should be provided. Any air opening must be kept clear from blockage and obstruction. Due consideration should be given to air requirements for any other appliances in the same room or home, such as heat transfer kits, kitchen range hoods, laundry dryers, bathroom vents etc.

  10. Our flue pipe is showing signs of going brown, is this normal? 14/12/2017

    The flue pipes will change colour depending on how hot they have been. Like all metals, when exposed to the heat they go through a process called tempering or metallurgy which is explained in more detail here.

    If there are any oil deposits like fingerprints etc. on the pipes then these can show up once they have been heat cycled and are much harder to remove. Any time the flue is touched it is worth following our instructions and have them wiped down with some methylated spirits.

    If there is a concentrated spot of heat like a ring around the pipe then this is an indication of a possible internal flue fire. If this is the case then a sweep would be recommended.